Formative Elm Work

Posted by on Apr 15, 2015 | One Comment
Formative Elm Work

Taking advantage of Spring growth is the name of the game in April and May. When an elm grows well it presents multiple opportunities to improve the structure and fill out the silhouette. San Francisco climate doesn’t encourage the type of summer-long unbridled growth in elms that might happen in hotter areas; but for a few months in the spring we get some pretty good bonsai weather.   Elms are similar to many other deciduous trees in the way that they can be worked.

This particular elm has been hanging around my yard for quite a few years. Initially I was not able to get started on the branching because I needed to add a trunk section.  The tree is an air layer – there was a lower section of the trunk that had no additional taper and was layered off the base. Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos of the process.

The tree has about a 4″ girth which ended abruptly with a large chop followed by a short trunk section that was less than an inch in diameter. It made for an awkward transition, so for the two growing seasons that I was in Thousand Oaks I had this tree planted in the ground and I allowed the top to grow without pruning.   When I dug it up and put it into the box for my return to San Francisco I cut off all the branches and chopped the trunk down to the point where it would provide the best taper possible, leaving only about two inches of the new upper trunk that I grew.

March 2014 after a trim and wiring the branching.

March 2014 after a trim and wiring the branching.

Even after those couple years in the ground there is still work to be done on the trunk taper, I’m now using a large sacrifice branch to fatten the next section of the top to further smooth the taper out. The wound from the last cut also needs to heal, which happens most quickly when a large branch or the top is left to grow out.

I find elm branching in it’s formative stage to be a frustrating thing to work with. The tree seems to make pretty large bulges whenever you make a cut larger than just a small twig. To me that means that I can’t make a mistake from the very first time that I start working on a branch. From a strong cut point the tree will frequently put out three shoots, all of which are too vigorous to really make good branching. Those three are typically removed in favor of slower-growing shoots that are further back.

One month later, at the end of April 2014

One month later, at the end of April 2014

When initially wiring the sprouts that come from the trunk after cutting off all the branching I was careful to set them at the correct angles based on the design of the tree. If the angle and movement directly from the trunk aren’t correct then the branch will have to be removed years later and much of your effort will be lost. This tree isn’t currently planted at the correct angle in the box, it’s leaning over a bit too much at the moment. Each time I work on it I have to prop it up at the correct angle to make sure that as I’m positioning the new branches that they are at the correct angles relative to the trunk. I can deduce the correct angle by the relationship of the branches to each other – the correct angle for the trunk is when all the branches have about the same angle to the trunk.

January 2015.   This front doesn't have quite the flare at the base but the movement seems better to me.

January 2015. This front doesn’t have quite the flare at the base but the movement seems better to me.

January 2015.   This potential front shows a wider base but slightly less movement in the trunk.

January 2015. This potential front shows a wider base but slightly less movement in the trunk.

Once the main branch angle is set and some movement is added with wire then the tips are allowed to run to fatten the branches. The cut points should always be facing downward, plan a section of the branch where the movement goes down, allowing you to cut to an upward growing bud that is sprouting from behind that section. Elms bud out pretty reliably but they don’t bud everywhere. I’ve found in the last couple years, at least on this tree, that it’s a mistake to wire out the branches with all the leaves on the sides of the branches. Instead, use the wire to make them rather rumpled and twisted with leaves going in all directions. The buds will come out at the same angle that the leaves are facing; without any leaves pointing upward, you will only get branching going sideways. To build a good branch structure you want buds going upward that you can then wire down to create good movement and further refinement. If all the branching is sideways, the result is a fishbone pattern – flat and no upward growing branches to fill out the height of the pad of foliage.

Building the branches follows this sequence:

  • Remove any old branches, this can be done any time but I find it most easy to decide about design in late winter or spring.
  • Wait for new shoots to elongate at least 4 inches but as much as 12 inches depending on the size of the tree and thin to one per site, select for spacing and position along the trunk.
  • Wire the remaining shoot at each site and set bends into it.  The angle of the branch coming from the trunk should be slightly upward and the first bend should be downward.  Alternate up-down and side-side, not down-side, up-side to avoid corkscrew shapes.
  • Allow the tip to grow unrestrained, watch the wire to make sure it doesn’t dig in and remove once the branch is set.  If the wire digs and you take it off and the branch springs up then rewire it.
  • Cut the branch back to roughly 1/3 the length of the finished branch; estimate based on what the silhouette should be.
  • Wait until new shoots elongate to 4-5 inches before wiring and repeating the process.
  • Once all secondary branching is set the process of wiring is mostly completed.   Some of the new branching can be wired to add branching or replace branching that gets too coarse.
  • Grow tertiary branching by shortening the growth cycle and by removing strong shoots in favor of weaker interior buds, the tertiary branching will normally not be wired as it is too small to easily do so.   Control the growth in spring, allow to elongate somewhat in summer (trim the ends if getting more than 4-5 inches.) and then trim to silhouette in winter.

I tend to look through Kokufu albums and other Japanese show books as inspiration for how to style some trees. In the case of elms there is sometimes really good inspiration, but elms are not a particularly popular species with Japanese professionals. The ones that you do see in the books sometimes have a very flat branching pattern.

April 2015, the branches have already elongated as much as 12" for the spring.

April 2015, the branches have already elongated as much as 12″ for the spring.

After some cleanup, removal of the shoots that were too strong and wiring.    Some of the branching is already past where I'll want the silhouette to be.   But there's quite a bit of development left to do in the crown section.    I'll likely remove the sacrifice at the end of the growing season if not before.

After some cleanup, removal of the shoots that were too strong and wiring. Some of the branching is already past where I’ll want the silhouette to be. But there’s quite a bit of development left to do in the crown section. I’ll likely remove the sacrifice at the end of the growing season if not before.

For this tree I’m hoping to have a natural looking elm branching pattern similar to my kifu elm. I’ll slow down the branching a bit by trying a partial defoliation of the tree in another couple weeks.

1 Comment

  1. John DeMaegd
    April 17, 2015

    Good post, with alot of good info, well said. Not easy to inform and do it in a intelligible manner. Now all I have to do is remember it and utilize it when I’m finally working on my deciduous. Thanks